By Layla Al-Mahdi, Senior Cultural Correspondent l
Tucked away in the southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula lies a land where history is not just remembered—it is lived. Yemen’s ancient cities and hilltop villages offer more than picturesque scenery; they are living testaments to a civilization that has flourished for millennia. From the soaring mudbrick towers of Shibam to the terraced farms of Kawkaban, Yemen’s landscapes echo with stories of ingenuity, endurance, and beauty.
While headlines often cast Yemen in the shadow of crisis, those who look beyond the news discover a country whose cultural depth and architectural wonders rival the world’s most celebrated destinations. Here, the past is not buried beneath ruins—it rises from the earth, greets you at every corner, and invites you in for coffee.
The Soul of a City: Sana’a
Yemen’s capital, Sana’a, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986, the Old City of Sana’a is a marvel of traditional architecture. Its famed tower houses—built of rammed earth and decorated with white gypsum friezes—stand like ornate sentinels over a labyrinth of winding alleys.
Strolling through the souks (markets), you might catch the scent of cardamom and cloves wafting from coffee stalls or stumble upon a craftsman carving intricate patterns into wooden doors. At the heart of the city lies the majestic Al-Saleh Mosque, one of the largest in the Middle East, blending traditional Islamic design with contemporary grandeur.
Sana’a is not just a city—it’s a mosaic of memory, where every cobblestone and stained-glass window has a tale to tell.
Shibam: The Manhattan of the Desert
In Yemen’s eastern Hadramaut region lies Shibam, a city so remarkable it has earned the nickname “the Manhattan of the Desert.” Dating back to the 16th century, Shibam’s skyline is dominated by mudbrick skyscrapers—some rising over 100 feet—built vertically to protect residents from floods and invaders.
This ancient form of urban planning predates modern skyscrapers by centuries and reflects the resourcefulness of its people. Shibam’s buildings are crafted entirely from sun-dried mud, yet many have endured for hundreds of years. As you walk through its narrow streets, it’s easy to imagine a time when traders traversed the incense routes, exchanging stories and spices with passing caravans.
Shibam’s architectural genius earned it UNESCO status in 1982, and despite environmental and political threats, conservation efforts continue to protect its fragile beauty.
Hilltop Serenity: Kawkaban and Al-Sahul
Leaving the cities behind, Yemen’s highlands reveal a different kind of wonder. Villages like Kawkaban, perched above the town of Shibam (not to be confused with its Hadramaut namesake), offer panoramic views of rugged mountains and fertile valleys. The journey up to Kawkaban is as breathtaking as the destination itself, with serpentine roads winding past terraced farms and ancient stone walls.
Kawkaban’s stone architecture blends seamlessly into the rocky plateau it rests upon. During the rainy season, waterfalls cascade down cliffsides, nourishing the verdant terraces that have sustained local communities for generations.
Further south, the lesser-known village of Al-Sahul sits surrounded by qat fields and fig orchards. Here, visitors are welcomed into homes for cups of spiced coffee and freshly baked khobz bread, as elders share oral histories that predate colonial maps and modern borders.
These villages are not relics—they are living museums, where daily life preserves the knowledge of centuries.
Architecture and Agriculture: The Twin Pillars of Tradition
Yemeni architecture is uniquely adapted to its varied landscapes. Whether it’s the tall mudbrick towers of the desert, the stone fortresses of the highlands, or the coral houses of the coastal cities, each style reflects a harmony with the environment. Homes are often adorned with intricately carved windows and qamariyya—stained glass that diffuses sunlight into kaleidoscopic hues.
Agriculture, too, is a cornerstone of village life. The terraced fields of the Haraz Mountains are engineering feats in their own right. Carved meticulously into steep slopes, they trap rainfall and conserve soil, allowing villagers to cultivate crops in even the harshest conditions. These ancient farming practices are now being recognized globally for their sustainability (FAO report).
A Culture of Welcome
Perhaps the greatest treasure of Yemen is its people. Known for their hospitality, Yemenis take pride in welcoming strangers as friends. It is not uncommon for visitors to be invited into homes for a meal of salta, fahsa, and homemade zurbian. These meals are more than sustenance—they are rituals of generosity, threaded with centuries of tradition.
Through such encounters, travelers gain a deeper understanding of Yemen’s rich cultural fabric—woven from a blend of Arab, Islamic, African, and pre-Islamic influences.
A Journey Worth Taking
To journey through Yemen’s ancient cities and hilltop villages is to walk through history, guided not by books or monuments alone, but by people whose lives keep tradition alive. Amid challenges, Yemen’s architectural and cultural heritage endures as a testament to the resilience of its land and spirit.
It’s a reminder that beauty often resides in the overlooked, and that even in the world’s quietest corners, history still speaks—if you’re willing to listen.
